Here’s Exactly What Salicylic Acid Does to Your Skin

Salicylic acid is one of the most popular treatments for acne sufferers, who find themselves reaching for a product containing the magic ingredient as soon as a spot appears. For acne treatment, we recommend our Aknicare® range which has a superb antibacterial action without using antibiotics. It stops new spots forming and has a spot reducing & calming action.Aknicare® reduces oil by an average of 53%. Aknicare® Lotion,Aknicare® Cream, Aknicare® Skin Roller and Aknicare® Chest and Back all contain salicylic acid. But what exactly makes salicylic acid so special, what does it do and what type of acne does it work best for?

· Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid

According to experts, as salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid, this structure allows salicylic acid to be more oil soluble which means it can penetrate into the pores of the skin. This makes it makes it great at unclogging pores and attacking pimples.

· It works by attacking your skin’s “glue.”

Experts explain how once the salicylic acid has penetrated the skin, the acid part of the molecule can dissolve some of the intercellular ‘glue’ that holds skin cells together, whereas, alpha hydroxy acids (glycolic acid) just exfoliate your skin when they touch the surface.

· It’s a powerful exfoliator

Salicylic acid is chemical exfoliator, making it much more powerful at sloughing off dead skin than a granular scrub would be, as it uses chemicals to break cells that have bound together to cause spots. Experts explain how salicylic acid also loosens and breaks apart desmosomes (attachments between cells in the outer layer of skin). It’s this ‘desmolytic’ action that encourages exfoliation of skin and unclogging of pores and dissolving blackheads.

· It can even give your skin cells a deep cleaning
Salicylic acid can penetrate oily skin and clogged pores as it is lipophilic, giving your skin a deep clean. Salicylic acid can also help to reduce acne as it can reduce sebum secretion. Finally, salicylic acid is an anti-inflammatory, which can help inflamed acne.Aknicare® Lotion dramatically reduces oil production, skin thickening and controls bacteria and inflammation, ensuring spots just don’t happen. Aknicare® Cream supportsAknicare® Lotion in changing the skin from within to cure acne and stop spots. For best results use Aknicare® Cream withAknicare® Lotion to ensure skin hydration.

· Salicylic acid works best on blackheads and whiteheads, not so much on cystic acne
According to experts, there are three factors that contribute to acne: An abnormal sloughing off of skin cells, excessive oiliness, and the action of P. acnes bacteria.

Salicylic acid works best on blackheads and whiteheads as it dissolves the type of skin debris that clogs pores and causes acne. Salicylic acid can directly dissolve the keratin plugs and regulate the skin cells. The Aknicare® Skin Roller provides fast relief in reducing existing spots. It also reduces inflammation in two ways and reduces bacterial levels without breeding superbugs.

Due to its antibacterial activity, salicylic acid also has some effectiveness against cystic acne. Be careful as salicylic acid can irritate and dry your skin if your skin is sensitive or if overused.

For body acne, we recommend using Aknicare® Chest and Back, an easy to use pump, which works upside down or right way up and the spray does not need rubbing in and will absorb over a few seconds and has been created to treat acne, spots and oily skin on your chest and back. Evidence & Success Stories available for our whole Aknicare®range.

We also recommend Enerpeel® SA, a chemical peel for treating acne and oily skin, part of our clinic only range. Enerpeel® SA delivers lipophilic 30% salicylic acid with 0.5% MSM but also the key active Tebiskin®  OSK /Aknicare® ingredients to provide a fantastic clinical treatment for comedogenic and inflammatory acne.

New patented carrier technology means we can insert skin condition treatment ingredients in with the Enerpeel® peeling agents which would usually be destroyed if incorporated into a normal acid peeling solution with active acids in. So we can introduce spot busting, antibacterials, anti-inflammation, ageing ingredients inside the Enerpeel® SA solution, to boost the home care cream activity.

We recommend using Tebiskin® OSK alongside Enerpeel® SA. Tebiskin® OSK targets acne with prescription strength Aknicare ingredients plus extra inflammatory to use with clinical acne treatments for difficult acne and oily skin.

Call us on 0333 247 2474 to find your nearest clinic providing this service and Tebiskin® products.

How to Get Rid Of Acne Scars: Chemical Peels and Derma Needling Treatments Can Help Clear Skin

Most of us have suffered with acne at some point, especially during our teenage years but even when treated, the aftermath can still persist – acne scars. However, the bad news stops here as there are a number of treatments that can help prevent and reduce the appearance of scars for clearer skin.

Prevention and intervention are crucial when it comes to treating acne to lower the odds of scars forming; 95 percent of acne patients develop post-pimple hyperpigmentation to some degree. First, it’s important to identify the type of acne scars, since they come in many shapes, sizes, and even colours. The most common are depressed or pitted scars, which result from inflammatory acne, or papulopustular acne —  lesions that consist of red blemishes, pimples, papules and pustules (zits) and larger swollen lesions (nodules). Depressed scars sit on collagen-rich scar tissue, preventing the skin from repairing the scar.

SkinMed recommend Derma FNS Needling to treat acne scars. The Derma FNS pen is an electronically powered micro needling device. The pen utilises the multiple needle head to deliver many thousands of tiny holes to the bottom layer of the skin to encourage skin rejuvenation and promote complete and skin remodelling from scars, stretch marks, lines and wrinkles.

These tiny channels stimulate the skins natural healing process and it begins to dissolve old rigid collagen, whilst then releasing serum growth factors, stimulating the production of new collagen and elastin development. A complete skin remodelling treatment.

We also recommend Enerpeel, the bespoke peeling system which can be used to treat acne scarring. Enerpeel is not your normal chemical peel. It is a chemical remodelling system designed to achieve maximum results with minimal downtime. It remodels your skin. Enerpeel uses carrier molecules, which carry exfoliators, remodelling agents and treatment ingredients into the skin. Different Enerpeels contain complementary treatment ingredients, used treat specific skin conditions.

Call us on 0333 247 2474 to find your nearest clinic providing these services.

 

The Top 5 Reasons Why Your Skin Freaks Out in the Sun and Exactly How to Stop Them

Even if the sun is behind the clouds you should always be wearing sunscreen and if you’re not, you need to be, whether you’re spending your summer at the beach or using your lunch break as a time to get your vitamin D boost. If you’re religiously applying your SPF but still confused as to why your skin is turning red then there could be multiple underlying reasons for this. Here are 5 of the most common issues related to sun exposure and how to manage and prevent them.

1. You’re prone to rosacea

If you’re covered in SPF and still look like you’re burning, especially on your face and chest then this could be a result of rosacea says New York dermatologist, Dr Whitney Bowe. Rosacea sufferers blood vessels can be very reactive and when you’re hot, as a way to regulate your body temperature, your body will dilate the blood vessels close to the skin which causes this redness. Always make sure you’re hydrated and cool when out in the sun to prevent blushing but a way to treat redness is to carry a cooler containing an ice pack or cold drink and hold this against the affected red area. If the redness doesn’t fade then The UV rays could be the problem, always make sure you use a high SPF – 30 or above explains Dr Bowe. We recommend Rosacure to help treat Rosacea as it reduces permanent and intermittent reddening skin and thread veins through desensitising the skin against reddening triggers making the skin more tolerant. Evidence and Success Stories available. We also recommend Enerpeel Mandelic acid skin treatments for the management of Rosacea and thread veins.This peelincorporates a 5% concentration of MSM deep into the skin. MSM (Methylsulfonylmethane) has been shown to exhibit significant anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties making it a fantastic new treatment for reddening skin. Call us on 0333 247 2474 to find out where you can have this amazing treatment.

2. You just need to cool off

Prickly heat is caused when your sweat glands are blocked. This could be a result of tight clothing or sensitive skin and humidity, the sweat builds up which causes an uncomfortable reaction explains Manhattan-based dermatologist Dr Joshua Zeichner.

In order to avoid this nasty reaction wear loose clothing and make sure you keep yourself cool.  If you do find yourself experiencing a reaction, Sensicure Cream Gel is a brilliant treatment for prickly heat as it delivers a calming action to rapidly and effectively control the signs of irritation. Also used to reduce the frequency and degree of itching and burning and reduces unpleasant tightness.

3. You’re using birth control pills

Melasma is a reaction result from a combination of fluctuating hormones from factors like birth control and pregnancy and UV rays. Bowe explains that the blotchy, brown hyper-pigmentation that may appear on your forehead, above your lip and on your upper cheeks is usually melasma. Always wear plenty of SPF and a large hat when in the sun to protect yourself from the UV rays to prevent this from happening in the first place.

We recommend using Thiospot, its new formula reduces pigmentation levels in the skin safely improving skin discolouration caused by increased melanin production.

We also recommend Enerpeel JR for melasma to give a smooth and even skin tone. Call us on 0333 247 2474 to find out where you can have this amazing treatment.

4. You’re allergic to the sun

PMLE (Polymorphous light eruption) is a skin allergy that can leave you with a spotty, red and itchy rash when exposed to the sun and after you leave it, says Zeichner. In simpler words, your skin has had an allergic reaction to the sun. This usually happens earlier in the summer season or if you haven’t been exposed to the sun a lot. Make sure you’re always reapplying your SPF and in order to get your skin used to the sun and to make sure it doesn’t react as strongly, acclimate your skin to the sun slowly. Ceramide boosting can also reduce sun sensitivity and sun reactivity. SkinMed recommend Hydratime and Nutritime for ceramide boosting as they can increase lipid density in the epidermis. This can then lead to a normalization of lipid levels reduced by hormonal triggers.

5. You’ve handled limes

If lime juice is mixed with UV rays, this can cause phytophotodermatitis – a burn-like reaction on the skin, explains Zeichner. Depending on whether the lime juice has dripped or splashed, the reaction will be seen in streaks or little dots. Always make sure to wash your hands thoroughly, washing away any drips and splashes after handling the limes. If skin has had contact with limes we recommend using Sensicure Cream Gel due to its powerful soothing, desensitising and hydrating action to eliminate any burning or stinging sensations.

Beautiful Skin Through Menopause

Menopause, by definition, is when a woman has not had a menstrual period for 12 months. The time leading up to eventual cessation of these periods is referred to as ‘peri-menopause.’ This is marked by commonly known symptoms such as hot flushes, mood swings and sleep disturbances. Women typically experience this in their late 40s to early 50s with an average age in the US of 51. Some women go through menopause quite smoothly while others struggle with this troubling myriad of symptoms.

Technically 85% of women have menopausal symptoms. For most these symptoms may stop within a year but in others may last up to 2-3 years. A decline in estrogen levels is the main contributor to these symptoms, although decreased levels of progesterone and testosterone play an important role as well.

While the overall trend is for estrogen levels to decrease it is not always a steady decrease. Women have a wide array of experiences with menopause, but one quite universal fact is how decreased estrogen levels affect the skin.

What happens to the skin during menopause

1.The Epidermis (top skin layer) becomes thinner and drier.  Estrogen help improve blood flow to the skin through capillaries in the dermis (layer below epidermis). These capillaries supply nutrients and oxygen to the basal layers of the epidermis (where new epidermal cells are being made). Now with less estrogen and fewer epidermal cells, the epidermis becomes thinner. A thinner epidermis means more water loss and an overall drier surface.

Try our Hydratime® and Nutritime® range. The Hydratime® and Nutritime® systems also sustain, protect and re-establish the skins’ barrier properties to resist moisture loss by delivering a range of water binding ingredients into the skin. They also provide sun protection using the latest organic pigments. Antioxidant and free radical scavenger activity is provided by special absorbable forms of Vitamin C and Vitamin E which support the natural calming ingredients. Click here to read more about this range.

2. The Dermis has less collagen. Decreased estrogen levels result in decreased synthesis and repair of the collagen and elastin in the dermis. Collagen is the architecture that supports the skin. The skin now loses elasticity, tightness and firmness. When the skin (and collagen) is exposed to environmental insults such as UV-rays, the skin struggles to repair. The end result is the presence of more fine lines and wrinkles. Try our Fillast range. FILLAST is the most effective solution for treating:
– Deep wrinkles and expression lines
– Sagginess and loss of elasticity
– Dryness
– Dull skin
– Signs of age

Click here to read more about Fillast.

3. Changes in skin Melanin production. The cells that produce melanin (melanocytes) are also regulated by estrogen. With less melanin the skin becomes lighter and more prone to sun damage. Women around the age of menopause (and everyone else) should use sun block with a minimum SPF of 20 on exposed skin, particularly of the face, neck and hands. Our Enerpeel JR and Thiospot ranges can help with this. Click here to read more on Thiospot and Click here to read more on Enerpeel JR.

4. Acne may develop.  During adulthood, with adequate estrogen available, the fluid secreted by sebaceous glands is thinner and less likely to block pores. The estrogen and testosterone are in balance. During menopause, the testosterone can exert a greater effect as the estrogen levels decrease. With more testosterone and less estrogen the sebaceous gland secretions become thicker making the skin more acne prone. Try our Aknicare range. AKNICARE® is an Acne Treatment Range which has a superb antibacterial action without using antibiotics. It stops new spots forming and has a spot reducing & calming action. AKNICARE® reduces oil by an average of 53%. Click here to read more about Aknicare.

Improving your skin during menopause

At its core, medical aesthetics and skin care is about improving the top layer of skin while helping increase the supporting layers (collagen and elastin). Ideally we achieve a smooth, vibrant epidermal layer with an elastic, toned and firm architecture supporting it. So with menopause we will utilize every possible (and safe) treatment in our arsenal.

1. Replace Estrogen. Understandably everyone cannot take estrogen replacement but if you can, this is clearly step #1. This is a hotly contested area especially with the arrival of ‘bio-identical hormones’ as an alternative. Certain types of cancers including breast or uterine cancer, a history of heart attack/heart disease, stroke, liver disease, or blood clots are conditions which preclude women from taking hormone replacement therapy (HRT). This is something that needs to be taken on an individual basis and discussed at length with your doctor. Suffice it to say if there is no contraindication to taking HRT, your skin will be much happier with more estrogen around.

2. Avoid Skin Irritants. Changes in humidity, particularly a lower humidity in the winter months can dry out your skin. Wear gloves and a scarf to protect your hands and face in the winter and keep your home at 67-70 degrees. An optimal humidity level is 45-55%. Keep your showers brief with cooler water and avoid ‘scrubbing’ your skin. Hot and long showers combined with aggressive scrubbing strips your skin of its protective, moisture preserving oils.
Avoid any soap or shampoo with heavy perfumes which can be irritating to your skin. Unscented is universally better for your skin. Do not neglect to realize that bed sheets, clothing, dryer sheets, laundry detergents and shampoos may contain irritants that may irritate the skin. If your skin is newly irritated or dry, try to remember if you have tried a new detergent, shampoo or soap.

3. Moisturize your Skin.  Hyaluronic acid should be an ingredient somewhere in your daily skin care regimen due to its amazing ability to keep moisture in the skin. It is almost like an anti-wrinkle vitamin. It doesn’t end there as the list of effective ingredients to help moisturize and hydrate your skin is lengthy. Some favourites to look for in your skin care regimen include petroleum, glycerin, lanolin, ceramides, dimethicone, jojoba oil and coconut oil. Try our Hydratime and Nutritimerange! Click here to read more.

4. Treat Acne (if present).  Many women around age 50 may find themselves wandering through the ‘acne isle’ at the local pharmacy. With a relative increase in testosterone due to the lower levels of estrogen, sebum thickens on what may already be dry skin. This is a recipe for adult acne. While no acne treatment regimen is ‘one size fits all’ (nothing is like that anywhere in medicine for that matter), improvements in diet along with the use of salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide are certain to help. Try our Aknicare range. Click here to read more about Aknicare.

5. Consider procedures known to increase cell turnover and collagen in the skin. Three procedures that come to mind are chemical peels, micro needling and laser skin resurfacing. In different ways these treatments all increase new cell production in the epidermis making it thicker and more vibrant while also boosting the amount of collagen in the layers beneath the epidermis. Click here to read about our Enerpeel range.

6. Consider having a cosmetic treatment such as Botox or dermal fillers (Restylane, Juvederm, Radiesse) to give you some real help in reducing fine lines and wrinkles.

What is Pigmentation?

Skin pigmentation problems such as age spots, liver spots, post-pregnancy masks and skin discolouration on the face and body affect millions of people in the UK and are a result of increased local skin pigment production, known as melanin.

Melanin protects us from the effects of the sun but often, due to a variety of different influences both environmental and internal, the skin can produce more melanin. This then results in hyper pigmented skin spots or areas, such as age, liver and sun spots, after local damage from acne or burns, or pregnancy mask, which is often seen on the jaw line and other facial areas. Inflammation is a key trigger of increased pigmentation, sometimes from acute inflammation likes spot or injuries and in other cases through extended low inflammation from exposure to sun over years. The latter is key to developing a more sensitised skin and the former is often the trigger that brings out the problem.

There is epidermal and dermal hyper pigmentation. Hormonal triggered pigmentation like melasma and pregnancy mask are deeper and more dermal and harder to treat. While sun damage is more epidermal and easier to treat. A lot of pigmentation is a combination dermal and epidermal and one should ensure assessment with equipment such as a woods lamp to determine the type of pigmentation, so the best treatment option can be suggested.

Traditionally an ingredient called hydroquinone has been used to lighten dark spots but this is now banned in cosmetics due to its reported damaging effects in the skin, and research also shows that its metabolites has even been linked to blood cancers.
However, help is at hand from a safe alternative to hydroquinone cosmetics called Tebiskin LC (Lightening Cream), which has been invented by Dr de Paoli, a leading dermatologist and researcher in the field.

Tebiskin LC is highly effective and reduces excessive pigmentation production in the skin safely. The products natural-based ingredients build up in the skin over a number of weeks, resulting in a gradual slowing down in melanin production and normalising excessive levels. As a result, new lighter skin cells migrate to the skin surface, replacing older, darker skin through natural shedding which is encouraged by a mild exfoliant. Tebiskin LC utilises a combination of 4 ingredients to target 4 different stages of pigmentation manufacture while not damaging the melanocyte (the cells which make pigment) and also not releasing potential carcinogens.

Tebiskin LC does not contain hydroquinone, yet it is just as effective and eliminates the risks associated with this dangerous ingredient.

Peter Roberts, managing director of SkinMed who market Tebiskin LC in the UK, said: “It is vital for people’s health that they stop using cosmetics containing hydroquinone. It is banned in the UK but a significant amount of hydroquinone creams are still imported from countries where it is yet to be banned and a strong black market trade exists. More worrying still are creams containing Arbutin and Bearberry which are natural sources of hydroquinone which are still legal but still supply hydroquinone when applied. Tebiskin LC is a safe alternative to hydroquinone and is just as effective at eradicating skin pigmentation problems.

Also, the use of chemical peels is highly recommended for treating epidermal pigmentation and also combined pigmentation. The revolutionary new EnerPeel system works in the skin rather than on the skin, to enhance skin rejuvenation and reduce melanin production to lighten dark areas of hyperpigmentation. The Tebiskin and Enerpeel range are for Clinics only. For more details on the ranges of skincare treatments and products or to book a skin consultation, please click here to find your closest stockist.